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War Models - Tanks, Artillery and other related models


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Tsarina #1 Posted 03 January 2017 - 05:38 AM

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11011884_849226108465285_2110527590473171421_n.jpg

I am a modeller form North Queensland. I have been doing this hobby for about 10 years.

I hope you enjoy my work.

 



Tsarina #2 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:06 AM

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1:35 M7 Priest in construction with completed1:144 stug beside to show difference in model sizes



Tsarina #3 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:09 AM

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Completed M7 Priest. Probably the worst model I have ever done.

 



Tsarina #4 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:17 AM

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US Command group in Vietnam 1:35 scale.

Palm tree is made from scratch as are the vines. Other shrubbery (we are the knights...) is either real dried shrubbery or made from plastic or silk sources.



Tsarina #5 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:21 AM

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Tiger (1:72) on a Verlinden Base. The back of the base is also fully modelled with picture frames on the wall. Still got to add microscope slide glass in the rubble to imitate the broken windows in the rubble. I will add a further photo when it is complete. Camo is hand painted. I don't air brush.



zaninfrastun #6 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:26 AM

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:great: Looks promising and certainly better than what I'm able to build. In my opinion you should invest in an airbrush, from my experience they save a lot of paint especially if your using the Tamiya paints.

 

R.I.P Patch 9.17.1 ELC AMX

 


Tsarina #7 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:31 AM

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IS 3, !:72 scale.

Had to use staples for the holds as the original ones didn't fit.



Tsarina #8 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:35 AM

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BTR 1:72 scale



neokai #9 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:36 AM

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View PostTsarina, on 03 January 2017 - 06:31 AM, said:

 

 

 

IS 3, !:72 scale.

Had to use staples for the holds as the original ones didn't fit.

 

​That explains why the handholds look uncharacteristically large.
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Tsarina #10 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:37 AM

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View Postzaninfrastun, on 03 January 2017 - 06:26 AM, said:

:great: Looks promising and certainly better than what I'm able to build. In my opinion you should invest in an airbrush, from my experience they save a lot of paint especially if your using the Tamiya paints.

 

​Thanks zaninfrastun, my husband has an airbrush but there is just something about it...I don't like drills either.. I''m working on it.

I'm using the citadel paints and have just switched to valejo



Tsarina #11 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:41 AM

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View Postneokai, on 03 January 2017 - 06:36 AM, said:

 

​That explains why the handholds look uncharacteristically large.

 

​Indeed neokai, it was one of my earlier builds. I actually am much better at fantasy and figure painting. It also looks worse because the pic is large. the model can sit in the palm of my hand.

Tsarina #12 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:43 AM

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Brumbar 1:72 scale

Hand painted insignia because decals frightened me at that stage.



Tsarina #13 Posted 03 January 2017 - 06:48 AM

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http://ausarmour.com/

 

If I need to look at a vehicle, I do what WoT did for the Sentinel, and I go to the Australian Armour and Artillery Museum.

 

Last September they did vehicle rides and I was able to ride in a Hetzer, 38T, T72, Sabre, and a Bren gun carrier. Most amazing experience and worth buying your plane tickets now for next year.

They also have the Fury tiger replica.


Edited by Tsarina, 03 January 2017 - 08:51 AM.


danielcwr #14 Posted 03 January 2017 - 08:54 AM

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These are all very nice!

Very impressive handiwork and painting especially :P


 

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Tsarina #15 Posted 03 January 2017 - 10:31 AM

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View Postdanielcwr, on 03 January 2017 - 08:54 AM, said:

These are all very nice!

Very impressive handiwork and painting especially :P

 

​Thank you very much danielcwr, unfortunately I'm not much of a photographer. My forte is the Warhammer and figure painting, though. If nobody minds, I'll post some of my military figures as well.

Tsarina #16 Posted 03 January 2017 - 03:07 PM

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What do you do if you have a surplus of 7.92 casings? Make paint brush holders and a mobile modelling toolkit holder for your husband.

Casings sourced from the Australian Armour and Artillery Museum where they have a shooting range underground and an array of historical weapons for you to fire.



kl19442 #17 Posted 03 January 2017 - 04:25 PM

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Wow nice handiwork for the hand-painted decals! I have a 1:700 Bismarck unbuilt at the moment.... but I recently completed a 1;48 Panther! Will post pics

 

(Rare coloured video of stronk T-34 retreating despite of Stalin's "Not One Step Back" order) 


neokai #18 Posted 03 January 2017 - 04:26 PM

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View PostTsarina, on 03 January 2017 - 10:31 AM, said:

 

Thank you very much danielcwr, unfortunately I'm not much of a photographer. My forte is the Warhammer and figure painting, though. If nobody minds, I'll post some of my military figures as well.

 

Some tips as an amateur photographer.

  1. Use a tripod or something stable to put your camera on - autofocus will be more consistent without the jitter from holding the camera in your hands.
  2. Not sure what settings you are using on your cam, but if you have it, use macro mode (link to an instructable detailing its functions).
  3. Strong, diffused light is best for model photography, and it's actually trivially easy to build your own setup (see youtube vid below).

 

Materials you need for the DIY light studio:

  • Cardboard box (big enough to hold your model + space to spare so the box don't show up in your photo)
  • White paper to "wallpaper" the inside of the box. I use what is known as "mahjong paper" locally, basically a large white paper roll that I can cut down to size.
  • Glue or double-sided tape
  • 2-3 desk lamps or strong lights

 

Steps to make

  1. Cut open 1 end (or if it's a box with a lid - remove the lid)
  2. Cut 3 holes in your cardboad box for the light to shine through (top, left and right)
  3. Wallpaper the inside of the box with white paper, covering up the 3 holes
  4. For the rear and bottom, use a single sheet and tape/glue it to the top of the rear face and the front of the bottom face. This creates the background for your photos and removes the distracting horizon line.
  5. Position lamps outside the box, facing the wallpaper holes. 2 lamps is sufficient (1 on each end) with your camera flash supplying the frontal light. Otherwise, get a third lamp to light up the model from the front.

 


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Tsarina #19 Posted 03 January 2017 - 04:56 PM

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View Postkl19442, on 03 January 2017 - 04:25 PM, said:

Wow nice handiwork for the hand-painted decals! I have a 1:700 Bismarck unbuilt at the moment.... but I recently completed a 1;48 Panther! Will post pics

 

​kl19442, perhaps you can start your own topic and I can follow your topic to see your models as you add them. I would love to see your 1:48 panther. 1:48 scale is a great scale to work in. I have recently mastered decals with the help of my ever helpful modeller husband. It was the markings on the Czech t55 that made me get off my butt to master the art of the decal. softener and setter and suddenly I'm the decal queen. We will have a panther arriving at the local museum soon. I'm pretty excited about that.

I'm looking forward to seeing your panther pics.



Tsarina #20 Posted 03 January 2017 - 05:16 PM

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View Postneokai, on 03 January 2017 - 04:26 PM, said:

 

Some tips as an amateur photographer.

  1. Use a tripod or something stable to put your camera on - autofocus will be more consistent without the jitter from holding the camera in your hands.
  2. Not sure what settings you are using on your cam, but if you have it, use macro mode (link to an instructable detailing its functions).
  3. Strong, diffused light is best for model photography, and it's actually trivially easy to build your own setup (see youtube vid below).

 

Materials you need for the DIY light studio:

  • Cardboard box (big enough to hold your model + space to spare so the box don't show up in your photo)
  • White paper to "wallpaper" the inside of the box. I use what is known as "mahjong paper" locally, basically a large white paper roll that I can cut down to size.
  • Glue or double-sided tape
  • 2-3 desk lamps or strong lights

 

Steps to make

  1. Cut open 1 end (or if it's a box with a lid - remove the lid)
  2. Cut 3 holes in your cardboad box for the light to shine through (top, left and right)
  3. Wallpaper the inside of the box with white paper, covering up the 3 holes
  4. For the rear and bottom, use a single sheet and tape/glue it to the top of the rear face and the front of the bottom face. This creates the background for your photos and removes the distracting horizon line.
  5. Position lamps outside the box, facing the wallpaper holes. 2 lamps is sufficient (1 on each end) with your camera flash supplying the frontal light. Otherwise, get a third lamp to light up the model from the front.

 

 

​neokai, you must be an amazingly nice person to go to so much trouble to help me. 

I see you on general chat and see you helping people with their enquiries.

I will see how I go with this, however, my camera is my phone (Samsung galaxy) and we are crammed into a two bedroom townhouse. I will have to make it all collapsible and able to be stored away. I usually rest the phone on a stable surface.

 

But excuses don't get the chores done, so I shall commit to attempting to make the box. By then, my stug III should be painted.

Thank you very much for everything.

 

 






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